This guide explains what the Metz SCA system is, the difference between its main versions, how to select and install SCA adapters, how to use TTL and manual flash control, high-speed sync, off-camera options, and common troubleshooting tips.
1. What the SCA system does
Metz designed the System Connector Adapter (SCA) to make their flashes adaptable across many camera brands. Instead of buying a different flash for each brand, you pair a Metz flash with an SCA adapter that “translates” the electrical contacts and control signals. That way, a single Metz unit can work with Nikon, Canon, Minolta, Leica, and many more — while still providing TTL or other camera-specific functions.
2. Main SCA families
SCA 300 – the original series, developed during the film SLR era. These adapters allow TTL and basic communication but don’t support newer digital protocols.
SCA 3000 – the updated family for the digital age. These modules handle modern TTL systems (E-TTL, i-TTL, etc.) and sometimes add features like high-speed sync. Versions are marked M3, M5, M6, etc., with higher numbers usually indicating newer firmware.
Other SCA branches – Metz also released other system connectors (e.g., SCA-500) for special applications, but the bulk of modern use involves the 3000 series.
3. Choosing the right adapter
Check your flash model (e.g., 54 MZ-4i, 58 AF-1).
Look up Metz’s compatibility charts — these list which adapter matches which camera brand and model, plus what features will work.
Pay attention to version codes — if your camera is recent, you may need an adapter with updated firmware (e.g., SCA 3102 M6 instead of M3).
4. Attaching the system
Switch off both flash and camera before connecting.
Slide the adapter into the flash’s detachable base until it clicks.
Mount the assembled unit on the camera hot shoe and lock it in place.
Power up the camera first, then the flash. On most cameras, the flash-ready indicator should appear in the viewfinder or LCD if the setup is correct.
5. TTL flash operation
With the proper adapter, your camera can control flash exposure through its native TTL system. Flash exposure compensation (FEC) is often set on the camera, though some Metz units allow adjustment on the flash itself. If exposures are slightly off, dial in a correction using the camera’s controls.
6. Manual control
Even with no adapter at all, Metz flashes can be used in manual mode. Here you choose the power output (full, 1/2, 1/4, down to 1/128) and set the zoom head as needed. Manual is the most predictable approach when working with studio lights or third-party triggers.
7. High-speed sync and sync limits
If your flash + adapter + camera all support high-speed sync, you can shoot above the camera’s normal sync speed (e.g., 1/500s).
If not, you’ll be limited to the standard X-sync speed (usually between 1/60s and 1/250s). Check the compatibility chart to confirm.
8. Off-camera options
Wired: Metz made SCA extension cords so you can keep TTL communication even with the flash off-camera. One type has a plug at one end to fit Metz hammerhead flash units, the other (SCA 307A) has a male module connector on one end and a female module connector on the other and is used for all hot shoe Metz flash off camera.
Optical/radio: Many Metz flashes have an optical slave mode. For radio triggers, most photographers use them in manual mode unless the trigger system specifically supports Metz TTL (rare).
9. Troubleshooting checklist
Make sure you’re using the correct adapter family and version.
Always power down before connecting or removing modules.
Test the flash in manual mode at your camera’s sync speed to confirm the basic connection works.
Clean the contacts with a cotton bud and alcohol if the flash misfires.
Be cautious with older Metz flashes: some output higher trigger voltages that may damage modern cameras unless the SCA adapter regulates it.
10. Care and storage
Avoid stress on the camera hot shoe if you’re using a heavy Metz flash use a bracket or cable.
Keep adapters in labeled pouches so you don’t mix them up.
Don’t store the flash with batteries installed for long periods – leaking batteries will ruin the contacts inside your flashgun..
Many of us have a need to photograph small objects for inclusion with auction posts on sites like eBay, or on shops such as Etsy, or to show your products on you own web site. There are also many who have an interest in photography of insects and other close up subjects from an artistic perspective.
Often the available light isn’t good enough in such situations so you resort to the built in flash of your DSLR, or slide the hotshoe mounted one to the camera. And that’s where you may find you have a problem.
When shooting close ups the lens is often so close to the subject that it obstructs the flash and results in a shadow of the lens cast over the subject. A ring flash is attached onto the lens. It provides a circular light that results in shadowless illumination. This is ideal for small items, and the light wraps around 3D items so you get a more even tone.
You can buy ones made by your camera’s manufacturer, but these tend to be very expensive so it’s worth looking around for an independent model, and some great older ones can be picked up for much less money. The manufacturers’ ones and some of the more expensive independents have TTL (through-the-lens) exposure so they adjust the flash output and compensate automatically for close up extensions and filters. But as most cameras used now are digital it’s easy enough to use an older manual ringflash and check the result on the LCD display.
At PhotographyAttic we have a small selection of used models and really like the Sunpak GX-8r because, unlike others, the batteries are in a separate power pack…and that means the flash unit attached to the lens is much lighter. This is an important consideration as it puts less strain on the lens mechanism. There’s a review of the Sunpak GX8r here
For those on a budget, check out the Centon MR20. It does have batteries in the flash, but just two AAs so its not too heavy. This flash unit was also made for the Vivitar, Starblitz and Cobra brands too. Doi also made an interesting unit for those who don’t have a flash sync socket on their camera, this one had the battery pack that slides onto the camera’s hot shoe.
Want to take photos of balloons bursting, party poppers popping or water drops in mid drop? It’s all possible with a technique referred to as high speed flash.
Balloon with small amount of flour added and triggered with Nero Trigger
Your camera may have an action stopping shutter speed of 1/8000sec, but often there’s not enough light to allow this sort of speed so the preferred option is flash. The camera can be set to the flash shutter speed of 1/125sec and the flash provides the action stopping speed by illuminating the subject at its flash duration which can be anything up from 1/500sec. Many go into the 1/20000sec area. The subject is illuminated in this quick burst which ensures it’s frozen in motion.
But there’s a bigger problem. How do you ensure that the moment you fire the shutter is the perfect moment. You can with either luck or incredibly good timing. Or better still take the guess work out and use a device that triggers the shutter at the precise moment required.
Such devices, known as triggers use sound, light or laser beam splitting to detect the trigger moment. They attach to the camera’s remote release socket using a dedicated cable. Some cameras have a simple 2.5mm jack others are more complex electronic connectors. The remote trigger will usually have cables to suit most popular camera fittings from Nikon, Canon, Olympus, Pentax, Sony, Minolta, Panasonic, etc.
If you want to photograph a balloon bursting you’d probably switch to the sound detector. The trigger has a microphone that senses the noise of the balloon pop and fires the camera instantaneously*.
Photographing a drop of water from a tap would require the laser beam splitter mode and would fire the trigger when the beam was split.*
You would use the light sensor to record a streak of Lightning. The trigger would fire when it detected a change in ambient light levels.*
* the exact moment the shutter fires can be adjusted in milliseconds so the trigger can fire slightly after the detection of change. This means you can allow for various delays that may occur.
The devices available range from very simple triggers to highly advanced.
