Unless you’re lucky enough to have chosen a camera with a tilting /hinged screen taking photos from ground level can be very uncomfortable or awkward. The titling screen feature on certain digital cameras allows you to view and compose from a height by looking down on the screen that is angled upwards.
This makes the camera easy to use when shooting flowers and fungi or other similar subjects from ground level.
Many of us don’t have such luxury feature, but there is an option available if your camera has a viewfinder with a slide in eye cup frame. The right angle finder slips over the viewfinder in place of the eye cup and provides an optical path set at 90 degrees. so you look down into the viewfinder. It still means you have to bend down to see, but at least it’s from a more convenient angle.
Many right angle finders also have built in diopter correction so they’re prefect for those of us with glasses. And some even have a built in magnifier going from standard 1x view to a cropped 2x or even 2.5x view. This is great focusing aid as you can be sure your subject is in perfect focus.
Finders are usually sold by the camera manufacturer, but there are also several available from accessory manufacturers. They’re not quite as popular as they used to be but there’s plenty around on eBay and we have several on PhotographyAttic – Right Angle Finders and Viewfinder attachments. You need to choose one that fits your camera’s viewfinder as each brand can be slightly different. Check before buying.
The Parisian concept store Colette has sold out of the very limited Hello Kitty Playboy branded Leica camera. Stalwart Leica fans might have been horrified that their upper crust brand had been tarnished with a cartoon character and a price tag of £750. Only 10 were sold, so perhaps Colette thought is was a risk to jump in with bigger quantities.
What do you think? Is the cartoon something more suited to plastic toy cameras or, being an iconic character, did it deserve place on such a prestigious brand that has, over the years, usually been reserved for some form of exotic animal skin.
ePHOTOzine’s tech editor Josh Waller was covering the Photography Show at the NEC Birmingham – full report here Photography Show 2014 show guide
The guide includes previews of the following new cameras
Nikon Coolpix P340, the 30x optical zoom Nikon Coolpix S9700, Nikon Coolpix P60 and waterproof Nikon Coolpix AW120.
Canon Powershot SX700HS, SX600, N100, D30 and IXUS 265.
Samsung WB2200F
Canon’s EOS 1200D entry level Digital SLR
Canon Powershot G1 X Mark I
Panasonic Lumix GH4
Nikon D4s
They also looked at the following lenses:
Zeiss OTUS 55mm f/1.4 lens and Zeiss Touit 50mm f/2.8 macro lens for Sony NEX E-Mount and Fujifilm X-Mount cameras.
Panasonic Leica DG Summilux 15mm f/1.7 ASPH. lens
Tokina 11-16mm T3.0 (f/2.8) for APS-C cameras and the 16-28mm T3.0 (f/2.8) lens for full-frame cameras.
Tamron 16-300mm 18.8x optical zoom lens for APS-C cameras, as well as the 28-300mm full frame lens.
Fujifilm Fujinon XF 56mm f/1.2 R lens for Fujifilm X cameras.
Kowa Prominar Micro Four Thirds 8.5mm f/2.8, 12mm f/1.8, and 25mm f/1.8 lenses
The Photography Show, organised by Future Publishing, replaces Focus on Imaging and is the UK’s largest photography exhibition. From feedback it seems as though the first of these shows was a huge success.
The Neutral Density (ND) filter is one of the more useful filters you could include in your collection. Digital image processing can do many things but it can’t reduce the light reaching the film or CCD. That’s the job of the camera’s exposure system and an ND filter throws in a helping hand.
The name explains its purpose. It’s neutral (in colour) and it has a density (level of opaqueness).
Neutral Density filters come in a range of densities. The basic ND2 has a 2x exposure factor (or one f/stop) and an ND4 has 4x (two f/stops). There’s also an ND8 (8x or three f/stops) and a less common ND64 (64x or six stops). You can go even further with specialist ND filters such as the Big Stopper from Lee Filters. This one has ten stops light reduction. So a shutter speed of 1/30sec would need to be increased to 30 seconds!
The filter goes over the lens and reduces the light reaching the film by the exposure factor of the filter.
If, for example, you had an exposure of 1/125sec at f/11 and you added an ND8, the shutter speed would reduce to 1/15sec or the aperture would need to be opened to f/4.
The reason to use an ND filter suddenly become obvious. If you want to force a slow shutter speed, for motion blur, or you want the lens at the widest aperture, for shallow depth-of-field, the ND filter can help.
It can also be used in combination with a flash to effectively reduce the guide number for close range photography.
The ND2 is hardly worth bothering with so we’d suggest you’re first ND filter be a ND4.
And another interesting type is the variable ND, like the one illustrated above. These are variable in strength, but, as reviewers have found, tend to cause criss-cross patterned illumination at stronger settings.
Wratten is a brand name from Kodak used for their series of coloured gelatin correction and conversion filters.
There’s a wide range – each one identified by its Wratten number.
The filters are very thin so are optically very good, but can be easily damaged
Wratten filters can be held or taped in front of the lens (or flash). Alternatively you can buy a gelatine filter holder for most filter systems for a neater way to attach the filter to the lens. Example include the Hoyarex Gelatine Filter holder and the Cokin P-Series Gelatine Filter Holder
They are also used in the darkroom for colour printing using an enlarger with a filter drawer. Cyan, Magenta and Yellow are available in increments of 5CC. Owners of the Bowens Illumitran and other similar professional slide copiers can use the filters to correct colour casts when copying from one film to another.
Photographers can tape a wratten filter over their flash and have a cancelling one on the lens so anything illuminated by flash will be the correct colour while the background will be the colour introduced by the filter over the lens.
The top ten filters you should own will obviously vary from person to person and is dependent on the subjects you photograph. Our choice is most definitely the following:
Circular Polariser (glare reduction and colour saturation)
Great for landscapes, still lifes and architectural photography
Grey Grad 4x (balance sky brightness)
Great for landscapes
Skylight (protects lens)
All purpose photography
Neutral Density x4 (reduces overall exposure)
All purpose photography
81A (warms up skin tones)
Perfect for portraits but also useful for landscapes
Close up +4 (for the macro shots)
Ideal for nature also good for still lifes
Grey Grad 2x (a weaker variation on 2)
Great for landscapes
Neutral Density x8 (a stronger variation on 4)
All purpose photography but idea for blurry waterfalls
Softar style diffuser (best softener for when you cant be bothered doing it in Photoshop)
Perfect for wedding and portraits
Star 8 (Adds star burst)
Great for jewellery, also interesting for landscapes
Good selection? Let us know your favourite filters and what you use them for
I’m currently reading about Mindfulness. In a nutshell mindfulness is referred to as the heart of Buddhist meditation. There’s a good introduction here Mindfulness and one paragraph stood out this morning as I prepared to wash the breakfast pots:
When I wash the dishes each evening, I tend to be “in my head” as I’m doing it, thinking about what I have to do, what I’ve done earlier in the day, worrying about future events, or regretful thoughts about the past. Again, my young daughter comes along. “Listen to those bubbles Mummy. They’re fun!” She reminds me often to be more mindful. Washing up is becoming a routine (practice of) mindful activity for me. I notice the temperature of the water and how it feels on my skin, the texture of the bubbles on my skin, and yes, I can hear the bubbles as they softly pop continually. The sounds of the water as I take out and put dishes into the water. The smoothness of the plates, and the texture of the sponge. Just noticing what I might not normally notice.
As enthusiast photographers we tend to notice more than most. We’re always looking out for photographic opportunities so we see things in the landscape, architecture, people, objects, that others miss. It’s a bit like mindfulness from a visual perspective. Today I noticed the bubbles in the freshly filled bowl and grabbed the camera (an Olympus OM-D fitted with 60mm macro lens) It wasn’t long before I’d taken a series of close up abstract shots of the bubbles…and interestingly they reflect the world in a chaotic way.
and now the scene is recorded I can observe the details and enjoy the shapes. Can you spot what looks like a suited figure?
Many new filter buyers are unsure whether to buy a round filter or one of the many square options.
A round filter screws directly onto the front of your lens. A Square filter slides into a filter holder that has an adaptor ring matching the filter thread size of your lens.
There are a few advantages and disadvantages to consider.
Cost
The main advantage with a filter system, using a filter holder is that you only need one filter for a number of lenses. You just need to change the adaptor ring so the filter and holder will fit on to a different lens. Once you’ve bought the adaptor and ring system filters tend to be less expensive.
+ System Filters
Space
This not only means it’s a lower cost when you have a selection of lenses, but you also save space. Imagine wanting five different filters and you have four lenses with different filter thread sizes. You’d need 20 filters in total! Well this is not exactly true as you can buy step up or step down rings to change the size of the lens’ filter thread.
+ System Filters
Quality
Screw in filters are often better quality. They’re usually made of glass and of the highest optical quality. Being glass they don’t scratch easily either, so are easier to clean without damage.
+ Round Filters
Size
Screw in filters tend to take up less room as there’s no holder required. They are less protruding on a lens too so there’s less chance of vignetting (caused by the filter obstructing the corners of the frame).
+ Round Filters
Design
The filter holder type of filter design usually means there’s a gap between the lens and the filter. This not only potentially reduces quality as light has more complicated path to follow, but also means the lens could be exposed to the elements more.
+ Round Filters
Range
Although there are plenty of screw-in filter options you won’t get a wider range than a system filter, especially in the more creative options. + System Filters
Practicallity of use
If you intend using graduated filters you can’t beat the slot in system as you have the option to move the gradient up or down in the holder, whereas a screw in filter has the gradient fixed across the middle.
+ System Filters
Fiddly
Screw in filters stand you more chance of cross threading the filter on the lens thread. They are harder to remove if you over tighten too. While system filters need a two step process, so are slower at first while you have to attach the holder then slip the filter in. If, however you can put up with the extra bulk at the front of your lens and leave a filter holder attached the slip in type become far less fiddly.
+ System Filters
Resale
If you decide to sell your filters square ones tend to fetch a better price on sites like ebay.
+ System Filters
The Skylight filter has been around for decades and is one of the most popular filters. It has a slight pink tint which is used to reduce blue haze in colour photography.
When taking colour photographs in bright sunlight, especially by the sea or in the mountains, ultra-violet rays and the brightness of the sky throw out the picture’s overall colour balance.
Removing any excess bluish tone, improves the overall clarity of the photograph. They also keeps skin tones free of colour reflections from nearby objects such as tree shade. With older film cameras this was very important as it helped restore the film’s natural colour balance. It’s less of an issue with digital as colour casts can be eliminated quite easily in post processing using an image editing program.
The Skylight filter does not affect exposure, so some photographers screw one on the front of each of their lenses as protection for the front element.
There are some photographers who counter this action, suggesting that the filter will degrade quality. And it’s true if you put on a cheapy plastic option, but adding a high quality Japanese multi-coated filter will give minimal degradation to the image. Any change will certainly not be noticeable to the naked eye. And the advantage of having a skylight filter (or UV) is you maintain a clean lens which would cost much more to replace than a scratched filter.
If you use a skylight filter you can keep it attached all the time, but be careful if you add other filters as the extended depth could cause vignetting on wide angle lenses. Some manufacturers such as Hoya make slim versions to prevent this.
Skylight filters are available in two strengths 1A and 1B, the latter being a slightly stronger pink colour.
They are also made by Cokin for the square filter system in A and P sizes, and Hoyarex and the likes used to make them for their systems. Hoyarex 011 Filter Cokin A230
Unless you’re lucky enough to have chosen a camera with a tilting /hinged screen taking photos from ground level can be very uncomfortable or awkward. The titling screen feature on certain digital cameras allows you to view and compose from a height by looking down on the screen that is angled upwards.
